Fred Santamaría (Culinary critic): I am dedicating my piece in the Gourmet to “El Rodeito”, a traditional Castilian-Lionese restaurant (wood-fired oven specialties) since 1988, quite a record in this region. It first opened fifty years ago as a transport café for drivers on the road which connects Malaga with Algeciras (Port of Africa) and Cadiz (Atlantic); the name comes from the “El Rodeo” area (nothing to do with Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles). As well as offering exceptional food, El Rodeito stays open 24 hours a day and also offers take-away service, making it something of a rarity among high-end restaurants such as this one, especially in Spain where good restaurants have strict rules on opening hours and service. Also remarkable is its closed wood-fired oven: in 50 years of service it has never burned out. This lends a unique flavour to all the dishes whether fish, meat or bread. Portions are generous so I suggest ordering half orders of starters to leave room to try all the specialties.